June 21, 2008 - Penn Mar to Harpers Ferry

Sorry about the delay in posting, I would like to say it was due to the fact of being busy, however it was more me just having a lazy summer.

Anyways, three of us set out from Penn Mar at 5:30 am to reach Harpers Ferry by dusk. We were not the only ones doing the hike, we met some hikers from DC who were camping out at the park and would hike the entire trail through Maryland as well.

In all we could not have asked for a better day to hike, the temps were in the 80s and the humidity was low. The first 10 miles offered the most difficult terrain as we had several up hill climbs. Luckily it was the beginning of the hike and our legs were fresh. We paced ourselves well and reached Ensign Cowall shelter by 9am as planned.

The next section took us by Annapolis Rock and the I-70 bridge really familar territory as this is were we trained the most. Although tired we were in good spirits and moving rather well. By the time we reached Washington Monument it was 1pm and we were making great time. At 1:30 we stopped at Dahlgreen Chapel were our wives met us and provided pizza and snacks.

It was not until after lunch, and the hike up Lambs Knoll that our legs began to feel it. I remember hiking Lambs Knoll in April, and it was much easier. Once again we suffered through and made it to a slow descent to Gathland State Park and our last resting stop. At this point we knew only 10 miles to Harpers Ferry, however it was now 6:30 and we had two hours to push to the Weaverton Cliffs and the final descent. This portion of the hike although flat was very strenuous, as we pushed ourselves to reach the Weaverton Cliffs by nightfall. At 8:45 we reached the bottom of the cliffs exhausted and with 3 miles of flat ground to walk along the C&O canal.

Although an easy portion of the hike the C&O canal was frustrating as the anticipation was building up, yet you could not see the lights of Harpers Ferry. Finally, at 9:30, the overgrowth gave way to the town, and the final bridge across the Potomac into the town of Harpers Ferry.

Dahlgren Chapel to Bear Spring Cabin

On Friday, I parked at the Dahlgren Chapel parking lot and headed south towards Bear Spring Cabin. This would be a 12-mile hike total. At this point crossing Old National Pike at Dahlgren Chapel will represent the 24-mile mark of the Maryland Challenge. The most important feature of this stretch is the climb up Lambs Knoll.

Lambs Knoll represents the last significant climb of the Maryland Challenge, with an elevation gain of 700 feet in just less than 2 miles. For me this climb was not too difficult, the trail is well marked and there are few if any obstacles. However, I imagine this to be a different story when we arrive here in June having completed 24 miles of hiking. The top of Lambs Knoll has three communication towers, which were obscured by morning fog. Additionally, there are some rock outcroppings, which on a clear day would provide a nice view of the valley below.


At the bottom of the White Rocks

Today, I decided to take the White Rock Trail to Bear Spring Cabin. The trail is relatively steep as it descends Lambs Knoll toward Mountain Church Road. Bear Spring Cabin sets at 900 feet of elevation and the trail is just over 1 mile in length. Unlike the Appalachian Trail, the White Rock Trail is less traveled and there was a large amount of leaves and debris scattered across the trail. If it were not for the blue blazes I probably could not recognize the trail itself. It took about 20 minutes to make my way to the cabin, a rustic looking building with a small campground. The area looked like it had not been used in awhile. I took pictures and made my way up the trail, this time it took some time to make it back to the top and catch the Appalachian Trail.


Bear Spring Cabin

This area is also significant for the battle of South Mountain, a Civil War battle fought in September of 1862. There is a monument to fallen Union General Jesse Reno along the trail. This area of South Mountain was a major thoroughfare during the 1860s and it was seen as a strategic advantage to have control of the mountain passes.


Reno Monument

The hike was another success, and I am feeling prepared for the 40 miler in June. I will try and up the mileage this month to get ready for the all day hike.

Out and Back I-70 Footbridge to Ensign Cowall Shelter (18miles)

Matt and I decided this route would help us gauge our fitness levels as it is just under 20 miles and therefore as if doing half the Maryland Challenge. Since the route we are taking will be Southbound, I will start with us reaching Ensign Cowall Shelter and hiking towards the I-70 Footbridge. Which is good, as we had just descended down to Wolfsville Rd, sadly realizing we would be climbing up that same hill. Ensign Cowall shelter lies 10 miles from the border of Pennsylvania along the Appalachian Trail. At this point of our journey we will be a quarter of the way done, and about to ascend up South Mountain to the Annapolis Rocks. The shelter is right along Wolfsville Rd and has all the comforts of trail hiking – an outhouse, a spring, campsites, and a nice lean to. We rested here for a brief period before beginning our climb back up the mountain.


In front of the Ensign Cowall Shelter

There is a 300-foot elevation change from the shelter to the South Mountain ridgeline, although not difficult this portion of the trail is very rocky, and your progress is slowed trying to navigate through the rocks. The next three miles were typical ridgeline hiking with a few small ups and downs but nothing significant. Finally, after hiking the ridgeline for 6 miles we made it to Annapolis Rocks.


Matt traveling some of the rocky parts of the trail

Annapolis Rocks is Maryland’s premier spot along the Appalachian Trail, and is visited frequently from hikers and rock climbers. The hike from the US-40 parking lot to Annapolis Rock is about 2 miles, which makes a good hike for the average day hiker who has spent the winter indoors. This was the case today, as there were 20-30 people along the rocks. The rocks themselves are steep cliffs, which face west towards Hagerstown. The view today was nice. Our thoughts were we would not be stopping when we hike past the rocks on our Maryland Challenge, therefore now was the time to take in the views.


View from Annapolis Rocks

After the Annapolis Rocks, the trail flattens out again. The portion of the trail from Annapolis Rock to the I-70 footbridge is well traveled, and there are few if any rocks on this portion. The trail itself widens out and becomes almost a highway going through South Mountain.

I-70 Footbridge to Dahlgren Chapel

This is a good 10-mile hike, from the US 40 parking lot to Turner’s Gap. This portion of the Appalachian Trail takes in two historical markers, the “original” Washington Monument and Dahlrgren Chapel. Today was a very cold day as the temperatures dipped below freezing and there was a fairly strong wind throughout the hike. It rained heavily the day before and we were not sure what the trail conditions would be like. Therefore on Sunday morning, Matt and I began our hike towards Washington Monument from the US 40 parking lot.

It is about a 3-mile hike south to the monument. There is a slight elevation change towards, but nothing strenuous. The trail itself is in excellent shape being relatively clear of rocks and debris and very wide almost three people wide at points. It took us a little under an hour to reach the Washington Monument. Now this monument was built in the early 1800s and lays claim to being the first monument dedicated to George Washington. It is at one of the higher points along South Mountain and provides for excellent views in either direction.


The Washington Monument

After a brief break, we continued along the Appalachian Trail this time going downhill towards Turners Gap. Once again this portion of the trail was in good shape and did not seem to be harmed by the recent rains we had the night before. After another 30 minutes of hiking we arrived at Turners Gap.


Me in front of Dahlgren Chapel

Turners Gap is along the Old National Highway. There is a nice church here Dahlrgeen Chapel built in the late 1800s. This section of the trail is the halfway point between Penn Mar and Harpers Ferry. It will be a nice break on our Maryland Challenge. However, this time we turned around and headed back to our cars at the US 40 parking lot.



Matt at the I-70 Footbridge

Weverton Road to Ed Garvey Shelter

Since the weather is starting to improve and the days are getting longer, we decided to do our first day hike of the Appalachian Trail for 2008. We traveled over the Route 340 bridge from Virginia into Maryland, and made our way to the Weverton Parking Lot, which is right off of the main highway about one mile from the bridge.

The first section of the hike is probably the most difficult, a quick ascent up to the Weverton Cliffs. The elevation change is pretty dramatic for the Maryland Appalachian Trail; you go from around 250 feet up over 1000 feet fairly quickly. Remember this will be a welcome descent for us in June during the Maryland Challenge. Once to the top the Weverton Cliffs provide dramatic views of the Potomac River and then the Loudoun Heights of Virginia.


Looking over the Weverton Cliffs towards Harpers Ferry

We continued another 2 miles to the Ed Garvey Shelter. There was still some snow on the trail, and where the snow had melted it was fairly muddy. I was surprised at the number of other hikers. Maybe the weather brought out the crowds, but we saw over a dozen different groups on our six-mile hike. Once at the shelter we ate a light lunch and relaxed for a bit.

The shelter itself is very nice. There are two levels and ample room to sleep ten. When we arrived there was another couple, who had spent the day clearing trees from various campsites around the shelter. They had also built a fire. It was great to be able to warm ourselves by the fire before venturing back to Weverton.


Ed Garvey Shelter

As I mentioned this was a relatively easy hike today, but nice to finally get out of the house and into the outdoors. Look forward to lengthier hikes as the days begin to grow longer.


Appalachian Trial as it Descends towards Weverton Road

What is the Maryland Challenge

I wish I could take credit for the idea of hiking the Maryland portion of the Appalachian Trail in one day. However, the inspiration comes from a Washington Post article. The terrain is rather gentle with rolling hills that reach 1800 feet and only moderate elevation changes. Additionally, with enough daylight the trail can be traversed within the day.

Although the idea has probably been discussed for a few years, it was not until this winter that I made a decision to hike the trail. Hopefully, I will have some company. I have chosen a late June hike – June 21st to be exact. There are several reasons for choosing June, usually the weather is comfortable and the days are long. A North – South hike from the Pennsylvania border until Harpers Ferry, WV seems to be the best course. If for no other reason than Harpers Ferry is a lot closer to my home in NOVA.

Currently, my goal is to begin training outdoors in March. I will focus on area hikes between 10 – 20 miles, and keep everyone updated.